Unimog U4000/5000

Time for another Thirdwigg Unimog!

Instructions are available at Rebrickable.com.

I am now averaging about one Unimog a year now, so it was about time for me to make another one. The 1:21 scale truck is now fairly common, for good reason: it’s a playful size, it does not take too much space or too many parts, and yet gives plenty of space for functions. The popularity of the U423 led me to try a U4000/5000 version.

As I started designing, I wanted to have the standard functions: steering, a drivetrain, an engine. But once I placed these functions, I was left with a lot of space, and the truck was missing something to set it apart from all the other Unimogs. I added a simple two speed transmission, but I still wanted another function. After some looking at a number of photos of the U5000, I started noticing a common feature: a winch.

With a little bit of work, I was able to add both a front and rear winch. The front is mounted to the right of the engine with a HOG on top of the cabin next to the steering HOG. The front winch has a lock, which can be released by moving the step on the right of the truck. The rear winch is controlled by a HOG on the right of the truck, with a lock under the fuel tank.

In addition, I wanted some options for bodies, so I created two chassis lengths. The short wheelbase (U4000) has a 19 stud wheelbase, and the long wheelbase (U5000) has a 24 stud wheelbase. Both are similar in design, but have different bed lengths. The U5000 version also allows for both a standard, and four door cab. For the long wheelbase version, I built a fire truck box, and a long bed. For the short wheelbase version, I built a bed and a little camper. The camper features a bathroom, little kitchen, and a table to converts to a bed. Also, plenty of storage compartments are both inside and on the outside of the camper. Finally, a little tipper trailer is available. I built it to match the Dark Bluish Grey U4000, but it can be made in many colors.

I have created instructions for each of these versions, and each can be found at Rebrickable.com: U4000 SWB Truck, U5000 Fire Truck, U5000 LWB Truck, Trailer, Camper.

Just like the U423, I was very happy with how these trucks turned out. The Dark Bluish Grey version is my favorite. The trucks work well, and have all the functions a 1:21 scale truck should. I love all the functions; playing with the winch is great fun! The hood is a little too fragile for my liking, but it looks just like it should. Also, it was a great reason to finally build a camper, and this won’t be the last time. But first, we may need to do another Unimog in 2024. Stay tuned….

Happy Building…

Porsche 718 Boxster

There are many great Porsche 911s, so it was time to try a Boxster.

Instructions are available at Rebrickable.com.

Like many car enthusiasts, I am love any Porsche. I have made my fair share of 911s, which is right of passage for LEGO car designers. But at some point, I looked around and did not find any Boxsters. So it was time to design one.

I had been playing around with some boxer engines for years, and I was finally able to come up with a design that I liked for this scale. The little axle based engine that has worked well for many smaller Technic builds is a great, and versatile design. It’s a little tall for small scale builds, but generally works well and is great to watch in these smaller cars. But it works because of gravity, so a flat engine design does not work. I tried ways to connect the axle pistons, but then the engine got so wide it would not work in this size car. Finally, after a number of drafts, and way too many months, a little design started to take shape. Built around a cam based crankshaft, pistons are mounted on a Technic connector and swing in and out to represent the engine. It is not a true flat engine, but it works smoothly, looks the part, and fits these small cars well.

Once the engine was done, building the car around it was rather fun. I worked on the doors and side of the car next, and it was at this point, I decided on the Lime color. Adding the fenders and rear deck came next, then I had to pause to build the roof. It took some time, and a number of drafts, but I finally came up with a simple roof design that would fold into the rear of the car. The roof was not too stable when up, so I use a HOG extension in the middle of the roof to give it a little support.

The car turned out to be a great little testbed for another engine design. I am pleased with how it works, and will be an idea I use in another build. The front bumper could be a little more rounded, but maybe I will update that on a future Cayman or something.

Happy building.

AWD E-Hatch

Another small car, but this time an EV with AWD!

Free Instructions may be found at Rebrickable.com.

I have been enjoying the small LEGO car theme that has been growing ever since the release of LEGO set 42098. Not only was it a well designed set, it opened up the 15 stud wide car theme which has been going strong ever since. I have enjoyed many builds by a lot of other designers, and I have had a lot of fun with many of my own builds.

I was tinkering with some ideas recently on a fake electric drive for this scale, and through this tinkering I found another idea that would work well for a front steering axle. Applying a fake motor to the rear axle was simple enough as the differential could drive an electric motor directly. But for the front, I removed the differential, but still used the gear to drive a fake motor. Using a CV joint on each side on which to mount the wheel would allow for the steering to work. The steering knuckle pivots are out of line of the CV joint pivot, but since the CV joint allows for frictionless movement of an axle, it allowed for a the center axle to flex a little bit during the steering movement. The center axle is mounted on a pivot that manages the movement.

The system works well, and means the front fake electric motors is always turning when the car is moving. The steering gets a little gummy at full lock as the front axle would be better with a differential, but the idea works well enough.

Adding in a HOG was simple enough, and I had enough space to add a connection to the front steering wheel. I wanted to try a different interior setup with seating for three, so this worked well with the center steering. Also, I complicated things just a little bit on the front axle, by having the axle a half stud lower than the rear to give the car a leaning forward look.

Finally, I worked on the bodywork to give an updated look to the classic rally hatchback from yesteryear. The comically large wing, and the large side intakes harken to the Renault Turbo 5 and the more recent R5 Turbo 3E.

I have enjoyed building in this scale, and it will not be the last time I do so. It was fun to try another feature for this scale, and I think with a little more work, the front axle will be perfect. I love the design on the car as the black, red, and dark azure look great with the proportions and bodywork. I hope you enjoy too.

Happy building!

Snow Patrol

Another build for a Eurobricks Technic Contest.

Free Instructions may be found at Rebrickable.com.

About twice a year, Eurobricks hosts a Technic build challenge, and I try to participate in as many as I am able. It keeps me building, and challenges me to build something I usually do not. And a friendly competition is always a good idea. This winter, TC26 was launched, and asked participates to build an arctic vehicle. I wanted to participate, but I did not have too much extra capacity during this season, so I decided to build something a little smaller.

The theme called for either an orange build, or a build that matches the colors of the original arctic theme technic had during the late 80’s. I, of course, decided to use the 80’s theme because this would allow me to use my seldom used Technic figures, and their skis. Also, the build would have to use tracks, and I felt this was a requirement for a snow vehicle. I was inspired by some side-by-side vehicles recently, so that was the idea I would move forward with for the build.

I designed the front suspension first to get an idea of the front track, and then each of the four track units. This gave me a rough size of the vehicle. Then a little engine and rear suspension unit was developed.

I then added the two seats and Technic figures. I have used these seats and figures before, and every time I do, I am reminded about how different the old studs and pins technic system is from the newer liftarm based system. There is no strong, simple, and compact way to add a Technic figure seat into a liftarm body. After some work, I was able to come up with something that would work. Then I was able to finalize a body around these features.

The design was simple, and nothing too fancy. The steering could have been a little better, and the tracks were not quite as smooth as I wanted, but it looked good enough, and allowed me to participate in another contest, which is always fun. Feel free to give the build a try for yourself.

Happy building.

LEGO 42168 Backhoe

I have been bitten by the Alternative Build bug.

Instructions may be found at Rebrickable.com.

A couple of years ago I decided that it was time to learn how to make an alternative build. I recognize how more people are looking for ideas to turn a set they have purchased into another build. Well, since I enjoy building other design, I am happy to share these with other people. Plus I like the challenge an alternative build poses: a limited amount of parts to make a MOC. LEGO set 42168 is a cute little tractor with some fun features, but what I really like about it is the green. It is a small, accessible set, and has some fun parts, that can be used to build something else.

Since the set comes with two different size wheels, I decided a little backhoe would be a good idea. Plus, with the amount of yellow parts, I could use them on the rear arm and front loader. As I do with all of my builds, I started with draft including all the functions I wanted the final build to have. Quickly I had a draft with working steering and a little fake I3 engine. The I worked on how the front loader would work, and the rear arm mechanism.

As I worked on the rear arm, I was not pleased with any of the bucket designs I came up with, so I instead designed a couple of attachments that fit the tractor a little better. A little drill and a claw are included in the build. The rear arm moves in a number of ways, and the tractor also has two stabilizing arms to keep the tractor from tipping over. I used a similar approach for the front loader as well. A bucket option is included, but I find the design a little clunky looking. It includes a set of forks as well which I like a little better. A little pallet to load is included. Both the lift and tilt are manually operated, and the lift includes a lockout level so the arm may hold up a heavy load.

I like to think I am getting better at alternative builds, but I do not think this is my best one. I find the design a little rough, even though the functions work well. I hope that some other builders find some enjoyment in this design, and I’ll keep working on more ideas to make available in the future.

Until then, happy building.

John Deere Gator

Another little helper for the Thirdwigg Farm.

Instructions may be found at rebrickable.com.

I get ideas from all over the place, and recently I saw a little John Deere Gator at a local park, and decided that was just what the Thirdwigg Farm needed running around and moving supplies. Plus, with each passing year, the addition of new green parts, makes additional John Deere builds possible.

As I alway do, I started determining the size tires needed for the scale. I settled on the 37mm balloon tires, but this presented a problem right away. These tires, need a 18mm hub, but this wheel does not come in yellow with an axle hole. After some tinkering, I found a little solution. I would use the yellow wheels with a pin hole, and mount the wheels on a Technic Pin with Bush Stop. Not only would the bush stop be able to connect to an axle and transmit power to a fake engine, the friction connection of the pin would allow for slight slippage between the axle and each wheel to function as a differential. Quickly I was then able to add in a little one cylinder engine, and a simple suspension on the rear axle.

The front was a little easier. A simple steering rack is design, covered by the hood and a little grill guard. The HOG is mounted on the top of the roll cage, and bisects the two front seats. I took some time to get the wheel fenders to look the way I wanted while still allowing for tire clearance as they turned, but I was able to make it work by using a half stud offset.

Finally, I added simple opening doors, and a tilting rear bed. Both are simple in their design, but allow for additional play features. I’m especially proud of using Part 85940 as a stop so the rear bed does not overtip.

Big MOCs get all the glory, but it’s the smaller ones that I like and I’m most proud of. Anyone can add suspension to a car that is 31 studs wide, but figuring out how to stuff suspension, a differential, and an engine in 20 cubic studs, its what keeps me building. This little MOC was a great project, and I am so happy with all the functions I was able to include. I hope you enjoyed it too.

Happy building.

OCTAN LMP

My favorite type of race car with my favorite livery.

Free instructions may be found at Rebrickable.com.

During COVID I had a little home office that was set up right next to all of my system bricks. I keep my Technic parts in a different place, so I could not get too distracted while I worked. But with this little parts so close, I did find myself tinkering with some of these system parts while I was on countless video meetings. As time went on I started to piece together some ideas that would work well for a full LMP car.

The LMP cars from the mid-90s to about 2008 were some of my favorite race cars. I love the look of the open cockpit, the long, aerodynamic bodywork, and the high rear wing of this generation of race cars. Though I do find this type of car difficult to build in LEGO. The cars are so low, and the wheel fenders are so slim. Both make it tricky to replicate in LEGO.

But after all this tinkering, I had some ideas that stared to work on their own. So I spend a couple of evening tying it all together. The bodywork guided the rest of the car. Once the engine cover and side pods were finalized, I started adding in the interior: engine, suspension, cooling parts. Which each added detail, I had to make sure the bodywork would continue to fit. The rear engine cover comes off in one part, and the front bodywork comes off as well, though not in one piece.

This car had no functions, but I was pleased with how I looked. I love the white, green, and red of OCTAN racing, even if this car could use a little less red. But all and all, the bodywork looks the part, and glancing at the car you know who the main sponsor is. I will keep this little build in my office for some time, and maybe I’ll try another little LMP car…

Happy building.

Mini 8063

Another build that harkens to an older set, and this time for a contest.

Free instructions may be found at Rebrickable.com.

I participate in a number of Technic build contests at Eurobricks.com, the TC25 contest was another one that I was excited to join. This contest asked you to rebuild a Technic set, but smaller. After selecting a couple of sets for my shortlist to explore, I went though each to determine what I had parts for, what interesting features I could keep or add, and what I would be motivated to finish. Through this process, I decided on LEGO set 8063 from 2009. After numerous tractors for the Thirdwigg Farm, I decided I would be well suited to update this tractor.

I stared with the trailer, and added suspension for the rear axles. The tipping of the bed uses a linkage so the little mini linear actuator can use its full movement to tip the bed. The control for the tipper is on the left of the hitch. A simple rear tailgate and trailer hitch support is included as well.

The tractor is similar to my other designs in that there is steering, an engine, and a rear PTO. But this tractor also included front suspension as 8063 does. To make this work, I used small 1/2 pins with a yellow round tile on the top for pistons, and ran the steering axle below the engine. The front axle is mounted on a pivot to allow for the pendular suspension. Steering is controlled by a HOG on the cabin roof. A rear PTO was added, and a three point hitch using the Thirdwigg Farm standard.

I always love building tractors, and this scale is my favorite. I would have rather used the newer tractor tires for this MOC, but it did not match the feel of 8063, so the balloon tires were used instead. All the functions worked well, and it was nice to include all the functions of the original 8063 as well. And the red and green compliment each other so well on this build. I hope you enjoyed another little tractor until I build another one.

Happy Building.

LEGO 8062 Update

Another update to an older set.

Instructions are available at Rebrickable.com.

Like so many other people, I am have a nostalgic pull to LEGO sets that were released during my childhood. I, however, make the sometimes poor decision to try and update them using newer parts and building techniques. Set 8062 from 1994 was a unique little set in that it came with instructions for multiple builds and a carrying case. I never had the set, but the helicopter and grabber truck always caught my attention.

As I try to add features to an updated set, I used the main rotor design I have used before. This simple design allows for collective movement of three rotor blades. It’s a simple design, but was a little tricker for two rotors while trying to keep the cabin free of interruptions. A HOG is placed on the left of the helicopter to spin the blades.

Like the original, a rear ramp is controlled by the HOG of the right of the helicopter. I also added a landing gear that retracts, which is controlled on the left. The front wheel is on a caster, and the rear wheels are fixed. I used many of the panel parts that have been released since 1994 for the body work, and kept the black and yellow livery.

This was simple and relatively quick build, but in the end, it seemed to be missing the look of the original. I think much of it comes down to the shape of the nose. To get the front rotor to fit with the rear rotor, I had to push it forward in such a way that the front windscreen needed to be a little more steep than 8062 was. But all the functions worked well which is always gratifying. I hope you enjoy.

Happy building.

42154 Porsche 911

Like so many other builders, I have found joy in building alternative models.

You may find instruction at Rebrickable.com.

The alternative build is becoming a popular theme in the current LEGO culture, and LEGO Technic is no different. Many people buy a set or two, and look for ideas what to make with the sets they have purchased. Rebrickable has made this even easier. Certainly I would like to share some of my creativity with them, but I also like the challenge of trying to design a creation with a limited amount of parts. I have built a couple of alternative builds now, so I wanted to try something a little bigger. LEGO set 42154 is a good size, has a lot of fun parts, and has a beautiful dark blue color. I love any Porsche, so I stared with a 911.

When I do an alternative build, I start with the big parts first: namely where do the panels go. For 42154 this meant I started with the fenders, the door panels, and the transparent panels. After a quick draft, I knew I would be able to get the general shape of the 911 right.

Then I worked on the interior. The car would keep a four wheel independent suspension setup with steering at the front. A flat 6 engine was mounted at the rear with drive connected through a differential between the rear wheels. I was able to keep the HOG steering link on top of the roof. Two seats are include, but no jump seats.

It took some time working on all the remaining parts. 42154 does not have many liftarms, so I had to design and redesign what parts are used where a couple of times. At the end, I had a lot of parts leftover, so I was able to make two rear end designs: a rear wing, and a little duckbill spoiler (my favorite 911 look). Both are easily interchangeable.

I was pleased to have finished another alternative build. They are hard for me to complete, but a good exercise in working with constraints. I like the way this one turned out, as I like the stance and the proportions of the design. The size is right for my desk, and the dark blue looks great in LEGO. Plus any 911 is a good 911 in my mind.

Until next time, happy building.